Whirlpool Cabrio Washer Repair GuideTroubleshooting/ Testing Tips:1. Don't become a circuit 2. All resistance tests should be preformed with your Cabrio washing machine unplugged from the wall outlet and any wiring to the component disconnected. 3. The most common cause of any Cabrio washer control failure is corrosion on the connectors. Always check for a good electrical connection first! Also look for broken or looses wires, bad terminals, or wires not pressed onto connectors far enough before replacing any Cabrio washing machine parts.( Note: Click on a Cabrio part image for pricing information.
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Because of minor differences from one washer model to another, you will need to use your washing machine's full model number when searching tor repair parts.) Whirlpool Cabrio Washing Machine Components. User InterfaceLike most electronically controlled appliances, Whirlpool Cabrio washing machines use a part called the user interface which is a thin panel of switches placed directly behind the skin of the washer's control console and also a switch called the encoder that identifies the position of the rotary cycle selection knob.These switches receive your every laundering wish and carry them to a inside the washer's console for further processing. The most common problem that can occur with this part of the washing machine is a switch sticking in the open or closed position, not allowing you to enter cycle selections and options, or the encoder not correctly registering the cycle knob's position.The relationship between the Cabrio washer's user interface, encoder, and the control board are so close it can sometimes be difficult to determine which parts is responsible for programming problems, fortunately built into this style of washer can be used to help identify the troublesome washer part for it's quick removal and replacement. Control BoardCabrio washing machines use a control board to process commands entered into the user interface and send the proper amount of electricity to a particular washer component at the correct time to perform some function, such as opening a particular water valve solenoid, operating the motor, energizing the recirculation pump, drain pump or lid lock.
If the washing machine were a body the control board is the brain behind all of the washer's operations.The Cabrio control board is also used to interpret information being sent from various sensors in the washing machine, like the or the motor's. Most problems that occur with the Whirlpool Cabrio washing machines are control board related. However, you never want to replace the control board without first checking all other possibilities through the diagnostic testing process.Note: Return policies rarely cover expensive misdiagnosed control boards, so before you click the 'Buy Now' button you need to be pretty sure. Water Level Sensor (pressure transducer)The water level sensor is actually a part of the washing machine's but because it has a very important purpose I will treat it like a separate part in this troubleshooting guide. The pressure sensor monitors water levels through a small clear tube that is attached to the bottom of the washer's outer washtub.As the water level rises, air pressure inside the Cabrio's pressure switch tube increases because of the water's weight. When the desired water level is reached, the pressure switch inside the Cabrio washer's control board cuts electricity to the and turns on the, for the wash portion of the cycle.
Any pinching or holes in this pressure tube and the pressure sensor will not be able to detect the Cabrio's water level. This will cause the washer to stop and display an error code such as, which means 'Long Fill' or other error codes. You can also calibrate the water level sensor through the.
The pressure switch on a washing machine can be found at the top of the machine, and it identifies how much water is in the machine - telling the control board if the machine has been filled or emptied. This video will help you to identify pressure switch faults and the ways to cure them.The device will have a chamber attached to the bottom of the drum, and a hose connecting up to the switch.In this video we are going to remove the switch, the hose and disconnect the chamber - so we can take a clearer look at it.A Little Bit About The Workings Of The Pressure SwitchWhen water starts filling your machine, air is pushed up the chamber and up the hose by the rising level of water in the drum. The air rises up the hose and activates the pressure switch - this will then tell the control module to activate the wash cycle to begin agitating the clothes.Once the machine has finished the wash cycle the control board will instruct the machine to start emptying of water. It is then the pressure switch which tells the control board when the machine is fully empty, and then the process of the spin cycle can begin.There are some common problems associated with the pressure switch, hose and chamber - so let’s take a closer look at these issues, and hopefully, help you identify the issue that you might be experiencing with your dishwasher.
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Cause 2: Damage To The HoseDamage to the hose itself can cause problems as well. Your hose can possibly become damaged as sometimes what can happen in some washing machines is that the hose can rub against other parts of the machine, leading it to suffer from holes or other general wear and tear.It is because of this reason as to why a lot of pressure switch hoses have an extra protective sleeve on them.If you see any holes or any damage to the hose then you're going to need to replace it - as the pressure switch cannot identify how much water is in the system, and this could cause refilling and in some cases can even cause water to come over the level of the drum. Cause 3: Water Continues To Be Siphoned AwayAnother problem which can be attributed to the pressure switch is if you have a drum half full of water when set to a drain cycle and having turned off the machine, you are finding that the water is still siphoning away.This is actually due to the drain hose being set too low – so it's position is below the level of the water in the drum.If this is the problem you have, then it's a good idea to use a drain hose clip to fasten the drain hose into to keep it secure. You can then fix it so that the hose is above the level of the water in the drum - and also just make sure that the drain hose doesn't accidentally fall down.
Associated Faults with a washing machine pressure switch and air chamber:. Overfilling. Intermittent Over or Under Filling.
waiting a long time for the door to open after a wash. will not go into spin; it turns as though it wants to but then stops.The Washing machine will not go into spin; it turns as though it wants to but then stops.The most common cause for this is the pressure chamber being blocked, or the pressure switch not resetting, either way the machine thinks it still has water in it and will not go into spin. An easy way to check is to remove the hose connected to the pressure switch blow into it and listen for clicks depending on what level settings it has will depend on how many clicks there are, this will happen the instant the hose is removed so be aware, if you hear a click it means the switch has reset so the chamber is possibly blocked but if there is no sound then either you missed it or the switch is at fault.
To test the switch you may have to remove it because you will need to blow into it and listen for one or more clicks as the different levels set. Be aware that some of the older machines have multi level switches, whilst the newer ones only have a single level.The pressure switch controls the fill valves, and in some cases will prevent the motor from going into spin. It operates via an internal diaphragm which triggers one or more switches (depending on the type of pressure switch). Water entering the drum as the machine fills gradually fill the pressure chamber and traps the air already in it. As the water level in the drum rises so the pressure on the air increases, this air is then forced up a small bore tube which connects both chamber and switch.
When the correct pressure on the internal diaphragm is attained the corresponding switch is activated.You have to wait a long time for the door to open after a wash.It could be the pressure chamber is blocked, if so you will probably notice more water in the machine and the cloths coming out wetter than usual. Hotpoint WMFUG942 13 months old – will not fill with water. Error code F05It will take a very small amount of water in part of the rinse cycle.Have checked the filter, removed the drainage pump and hose from drum to pump – pretty gunged up but now clean. Have checked the outlet pipe. Put 2 gallons water into drum and selected pump – all the water cleared easily.Have replaced the cold water fill solenoid with genuine Hotpoint part.
Still the same problem.Have remove tube at base of pressure sensor – NO audible click heard. Have blown through tube and it was clear. I have gently blown and sucked the base of the pressure sensor and can feel movement, but no audible click.Tried to locate the pressure chamber – could not find one.Any ideas? Do I need to replace the pressure sensor?
In this video I show you how to test the pressure switch on your washer. If you have a washer that is overfilling with water or not filling at all, this could be your issue.Another thing is if the pressure switch tube is plugged with debris, it could also cause the washer to not fill or overfill. By simply blowing into the hose could clear any obstruction and get your washer back up and running.This is an Amana washer in the video.
This test will work on most washers with a three prong connector on the pressure switch.Thanks for taking the time to watch this video. If you are not Subscribed to my YouTube Channel, make sure you do that now.Washer Troubleshooting on a Pressure Switch.
I’ve just written an article describing exactly. This article is a follow up to it describing some of the faults that can occur with the pressure system. Various things can go wrong causing symptoms described below – but all these symptoms have other possible causes too so it’s important not to make assumptions. In order to try and understand pressure system faults you should read the first article to understand how the pressure system works. The pressure switchThey are normally very reliable but it’s possible for a switch inside to stick either on or off (usually on). Connection faults on the switch can also prevent messages getting through to the controller resulting in similar faults. A switch sticking on will make the washer think there’s water inside the drum when there isn’t, and sticking off will tell the washer there isn’t any water in when there is.This would cause the washer to either not do the fast spin, or overfill.
Pressure Switch Failing Symptoms Top Loading Washing Machines Reviews
However, neither of these symptoms are exclusively related to a stuck pressure switch – there are more likely causes.If you blow up the pressure switch it should click on, and then off when the air escapes out. If it doesn’t click it’s faulty. However, it may have just 1 switch or more levels (up to 3 switches) so unless you know how many switches are inside you won’t know if it’s got one jammed or not. On average I would expect 2 levels, low level for wash and high level for rinse but it’s possible to have just one, or a third one for overfilling detection. The more wires, the more levels. If you know what you are doing you should be able to work out how many switches are inside with a continuity test meter or by looking at the wires.(For more pictures and information about pressure switches see my previous article ) The modern pressure switchThe pressure switches shown and described above have now been replaced with a different type.
Instead of having mechanical switches inside that are operated by air pressure they have small coils with magnets inside that give a different resistance reading depending on how much air pressure is applied. The old style pressure switch has remained virtually unchanged for 40 years or more and has usually been one of the more reliable parts on a washing machine. It remains to be seen whether these (obviously cheaper) designs are reliable or not but in theory they ought to be very reliable still (if not more so) because of the reduced number of parts.
Troubleshooting these modern pressure switches may be a bit more difficult without knowing the expected resistance readings. The small pressure switch tubing between the pressure switch and pressure chamber bottleDamage to the pipe, or air leaks at the connection points on the pressure switch or plastic pressure chamber bottle can cause because air pressure is lost. Without an airtight connection it’s impossible to create enough pressure to activate the pressure switch or at last to keep it switched on.
Pressure chamber bottleIf the pressure chamber at the bottom of the tube gets blocked with gunge inside, then when the washing machine empties the water, the water inside the pressure chamber (which is only really a small plastic bottle) gets trapped because it can’t get past the gunge. This means that the air pressure is held inside the plastic tube so the pressure switch is jammed ON.A blocked pressure chamber bottle can also restrict or prevent water getting into the bottle in the first place causing the washer to take in too much water or to. This would need a fairly solid blockage though and is much more rare than trapping the air pressure as described in the last paragraph. This is because the sheer volume of water inside the tub can sometimes force its way past gunge into the bottle, but because hardly any water actually goes into the bottle this very small amount cannot force its way back out when it drains (if there is a blockage).Finally, if a pneumatic door interlock is fitted that prevents the door opening when full of water, a part of the small pressure tubing (at the top of the pressure chamber bottle) branches off and fits onto the door interlock. The air pressure is therefore also used to operate a lock inside the door as described in this article.
This type of interlock is rarely used these days because of cost cutting, but it used to be common on washing machines from the 90s. The relevance here is that gunge inside the pressure chamber bottle can also trap air in the tube that leads to the door lock preventing it from opening even when water has been pumped away. Fixing a blocked pressure systemThis article looks specifically at blocked pressure systems and how to fix or diagnose one Other symptomsNot taking any water in or refusing to do a fast spin are other possible symptoms of faults on the pressure system related to the machine thinking there is water inside when there isn’t – but as with most of the other symptoms, other unrelated faults can cause the exact same symptoms. General help for these two faults can be found here – and.Finally, a fault in the pressure system can cause the washer to abort the programme and give an error code –. Hello Mike, if it’s one of the old style pressure switches that physically turns switches on and off it should be totally airtight.
You should be able to blow into in and place your finger over the spout and the click should hold. You might not be able to get a finger on it fast enough to trap both clicks but should be able to trap the last click which should hold until finger is released. But if you can tell that air is passing though it somehow it must have a leak. If this is the case I would expect the machine to overfill, or to constantly keep topping up with water as the air pressure keeps dropping (which would result eventually in overfilling) or it should abort the cycle with an error.Keith Grine says.
Hello Keith, all modern washing machines tend to energise the pump for a short while before starting a wash cycle. It’s just to make sure the machine is empty. If it fails to fill with water after 20 or 30 seconds there could be a fault with the water supply to the machine or the water valve in the machine (check this article –In relation to the pressure system, a fault on the pressure system (as described in this article above) could convince the washing machine it already has water inside and that would stop it taking any more water in. However, I would also expect that if this is the case the drum would start turning as if washing the laundry and it would also refuse to spin.A final possibility is if by any chance there was a fault or partial blockage in the pump or plumbing resulting in the washer not being able to empty the water out properly although I would expect it to be fairly obvious that there is still some water inside the machine.Peter Boucher says.
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This sounds like a problem I’m having with my hoover washing machine, It fills for about five seconds then stops. Goes through the program with hardly any water in the drum and then stops with an E03 drain problem message. The machine drains well though. I have replaced the water valves to no avail, and there is a good rush of water going in for the 5 seconds. The pressure switch appears to be working the pipe to it is clear, and there is no improvement when the pressure tube is removed. Any ideas?PatrickI’ seem to remember having this problem before now, and pressing a combination of buttons to reset the program?.says. Pressure switches are normally very reliable.
I’m presuming it’s an older type pressure switch with audible clicks when blown into. To test one you need to know how many clicks there should be. They can be double or even triple level so it’s possible for the first level switch to be jammed on making the washer think it’s got water in when it hasn’t. That would stop it taking more water in on wash and cause it to think the water is still in the machine on spin and refuse to spin. At the end of the day, attempting to fix faults that aren’t straight forward is a gamble and a risk of wasting a lot of time and money.Richard Shead says.
Pressure Switch Failing Symptoms Top Loading Washing Machines 2019
Zanussi ZWG6122 failed to complete cycle – pump filter blocked. Easy enough to clear this, but then the machine wouldn’t do anything other than drain – all other programmes just turned on the pump, as though the machine was already full of water.
Disconnected tubing from pressure switch and blew down it. Initially blocked but blew harder till bubbling noise from pressure bottle. Blockage cleared, pressure switch functions again and machine now fully operational.Many thanks for your article – saved me over £200.Billy says. If it is a hot and cold fill washing machine there could be a problem with the hot water supply or the hot water valve in the machine. A washing machine will normally fill up with cold water for several seconds, pause, and then start taking hot water. If it is cold fill only with just one water valve then it is going to be difficult fault to deal with because clearly everything is working all right to allow it to start taking water in at all.A pressure system fault could cause issues with water levels but if the pressure system erroneously thinks the water has gone into the machine okay and stops the fill process it should then proceed to wash.
So if the washing machine is hanging this implies that it is still waiting for the pressure system to be activated. Therefore suspect is more likely to be a problem in getting the water into the machine.If there are more than one fill valve check this article for troubleshooting a.Ally McLeod says. I’m trying to resolve a problem with my front loading LG machine (F1480QDS). The machine has been temperamental for a couple of weeks, regularly stopping towards the end of a cycle with the OE code.
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Even when the machine does – rarely – complete a cycle, there is often some water left, albeit it’s generally below the level of the drum. It does seem to drain some but not all of the water – I got a shock the first time I took the filter out when a significant amount of water came out. Interestingly this wouldn’t drain out of the drain hose. I’ve also noticed it’s not been washing properly, and doesn’t appear to be rinsing effectively. I originally thought it was a blocked filter and/or blocked drain hose but have managed to discount both of those now.
I took the pump out of the machine yesterday to see if there were any other noticeable blockages/faults but none seen. I’ve ordered a replacement pump thinking it can only be the pump, but your article has now got me thinking about other potential causes. Any advice gratefully received.Ally McLeod says. Hi, I have a hoover OPH 714D washing machine, when i switch the machine on everything seems normal but when i choose a program the drain pump starts working and the door locks but no water is in the machine. I tried opening the door of the machine emptied a bucket of clean water maybe something else happenes but the water was emptied and the drain pump continued on working.
I am to check the pressure switch by blowing and maybe trying to hear some clicking noises, i will then go to the pressure chamber which maybe there is any blockage.Any pointers please maybe you had a similar problem.Andy Trigg (Whitegoodshelp) says. A fault on the pressure system could cause the machine to think it already has water in and stop it from taking in water. However, if it thinks it already has water in it should start turning the drum and “washing”.
Such faults can also cause the heating element to energise which is a very bad thing with no water inside.So if it isn’t turning the drum back and forth it’s unlikely to be a pressure system fault. I would start at this articleHowever, if it starts a cycle by running the pump (which is normal) but then the pump doesn’t stop running it won’t be a fault with filling. This is because the pump should stop before it tries to take in water. If the pump doesn’t stop running it is stuck. A fault on the pressure system might be a cause but if so it shouldn’t work on the spin cycle either. Does it spin OK on a spin only cycle?.patrick says. Hello Jean and thanks.
It’s probably frustrating, but my article (and the previous – how the pressure system works) are intended to just give a good idea how the pressure system works. From there, if someone has the skills and experience at repairing things – but just not washing machines – it might help them diagnose a fault.Continuously pumping when set on a cycle could be caused by insulation faults on the machine. Continuous pumping could theoretically be caused by a stuck pressure switch if it has an overfill switch built in. I think stuck pressure switches are very unlikely these days though.
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